Hey friends,
Welcome!!! I’ve been working away in the background lately and I’m sorry for not posting as much as I should. I’ve been knitting and crocheting away, though, for some new fun projects I can bring you this year! The first series we’re going to work on is a customized raglan sweater that you can make even if you’ve never knitted a sweater before!! We’re going to talk about principles of this design so you can make it as I’ve shown, or add different elements to really make it your own.
What is a Raglan Sweater?
The raglan sweater design refers to the technique of working top-down, and all in one piece, instead of knitting each piece and sewing them together afterwards. We will knit the collar and yoke in this post. Then we’ll separate the arms and body, then knit the body. Then, finally, how to work the sleeves. This is more of a fundamental skills style of post, instead of a pattern, because I want you to customize your sweater, not necessarily make this exact one. I’ll use my calculations to help you figure out yours.
In this first post of our raglan sweater series, we’re talking about how we start, knit the neck and yoke (upper part of the chest and back) of the sweater. Its might seem a bit intimidating, but the raglan is the best first sweater project for knitters of all skill levels.
Materials
The first thing you need to do to choose some yarn and needles. I am using Caron cakes skinny cakes, but its no longer available. Try this one. I am also using 3.75mm smaller (12″) round and double pointed needles, and a longer round needle, 30″ should be a good length for working around the body. You will also need 4 stitch markers. I like having a different one, or a different colour, for one that reminds me of the end of the row. Try these from Amazon. They work perfectly and are removeable, so you can use them if you crochet as well.
Gauge
You may want to make a gauge swatch first thing so that you know how many stitches you make per inch of finished fabric. Everyone’s gauge is a little different so this will help you make a sweater that actually fits. If you’re using the needle size recommended by your yarn, you can use the stitch count on the package as a good place to start, but a gauge swatch will help if you want to do anything other than straight stockinette. For example, seed stitch is a different gauge than herringbone stitch.
Measurements
You want to measure the size of their neck around the base and add 1-2″ so it fits over their head. The length from the collarbone to underarm, where the crease starts with the arm down, across the front of their shoulder (1st image above). The length from underarm to wherever you want the body section to end, and the arm length. We only need the first 2 measurements for this first part, but its good to do them all at once.
You may also want to measure around the chest, and waist to decide if you need to decrease or increase as you work down the body, and same for around top of the arm and wrist. For example, a sweater for me is fine to work straight down the body, because I am a similar measurement between waist and bust, but a man, may need more in the chest, or more in the waist, depending on their shape.
Sizing
You can use the below chart for sizing, (I believe its adult sizing). For this pattern, we’ll keep it super simple and measure as we go. Keep in mind, if you want to make a fitted sweater, you want to be pretty exact with your measurements. But if you want an oversized or looser sweater, add a couple of inches to your measurements, especially for kids. For my kids, I always add extra length to the body and arms, so they can wear them longer. I measured my daughter for this sweater.
Getting Started – The Collar
Begin by deciding the number of stitches needed for the neck. I am using 84 stitches, with the 3.75mm needles and Caron skinny cakes (3) yarn. Keep in mind you will want to decide the number based on your desired repeat for the collar. Mine is knit 1, purl 2, so 3 stitches needed for the repeat. We need 5 stitches per inch with this needle size. I needed 82 stitches, but need a multiple of 3, so went a little bigger, with 84 stitches.
The body of your raglan sweater is going to be straight stockinette. Since we’re knitting in the round, its all knit stitches. You have full design control of this design. Do you want a mock turtle neck, knit for a few inches. I made a full turtle neck, and started by knitting a full 8″ for my collar before starting the yoke. (I posted this sweater version on my Instagram)
Using double pointed needles, and a stretchy cast on, like Long Tail, and cast on your required number of stitches for your size of a sweater. Place a stitch marker at the end of the row. Knit in whatever pattern you’d like, or follow mine, knit 1, purl 2, for your desired collar. Try knitting a turtle neck style, with 5-6″, or a mock turtleneck, with 2-3″.
My collar is knit 1, purl 2. and I knit for the first inch with that pattern, in the round. When you are finished the collar, as you want to make it, you begin the yoke, or chest and back section.
Yoke
Begin your yoke by placing 3 more stitch markers (4 in total) evenly around your row as you knit 1 full row around after the bottom of the collar. These will be our increase points for EVERY OTHER row as we work this section of the sweater. For my sweater, I placed stitch markers at 21, 42, 63 stitches as well as the one at the end of the row. To figure out how many stitches to count, divide your total stitch count by 4, and even it out if you don’t have a round number. For example, 110 stitches divided by 4 is 27.5, so place markers at 27, 55, 82, and the end of the row.
Row 2 of the yoke: knit the first stitch and the second, make a lifted increase, then knit that new stitch. Now, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, lifted increase into the stitch below the next one. Knit the new one and the last stitch before the marker, then the next 2, and lift the stitch below the last one like we did at the beginning. You want to increase just before and after each stitch marker. I like to leave 1 stitch between the increases that is knit normally.
If you need help with lifted increases, check out this video. Or skip down to the bottom to watch the video tutorial of this section of the sweater.
Row 3: Knit all stitches.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until the length of your yoke matches the length you measured at the beginning.
Next Steps:
At this point, you will separate your arms from the chest and back, but we’ll do that in next week’s post!
Watch the video:
Part 2 is linked here when you’re ready to separate for your sleeves and knit the body.
Thanks for learning with us!
